Our recent series of posts on attractions along the Mekong has inspired us to plan a trip to Loei, an Upper Isan province that’s perfect for a peaceful vacation amid natural landscapes and charming culture.
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This programme will focus on the two districts of Dan Sai and Chiang Khan, some 80 km and 50 km from Loei town, respectively.
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Day 1
1. Phra That Si Song Rak, Dan Sai
2. Phi Ta Khon Museum at Wat Phon Chai, Dan Sai
3. Kaeng Khut Khu, Chiang Khan
4. Chiang Khan Walking Street
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Day 2
5. Phu Tok, Chiang Khan
6. Tai Dam Cultural Village, Chiang Khan
Day 1
Wat Phra That Si Song Rak – a monument to the friendship between the Thais and the Lao
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Constructed in the 16th century, this ancient temple was a symbol of friendship between Ayutthaya and Sri Sattana Khanahut (Vientiane). Although it was meant to be a religious monument, the temple’s chedi contains no particular sacred objects, nor are there monks living at the temple. An image of its chedi is used as the symbol and the provincial seal of Loei signifying its significance for its people.
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The chedi is in the Lan Xang style characterised by its angular shape on a square base with 12 indented corners. The wihan is enshrined with a seated Buddha image under the protection of the Naga, a Tibetan style of sculpture.
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Tambon Dan Sai, Amphoe Dan Sai, Loei
Open daily from 6:00 a.m. – 6:30 p.m.
An annual event in celebration of the chedi is held on Visakha Puja Day in May with offerings made of natural materials; such as, bamboo, banana sheath, candle wax and flowers.
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Red is considered taboo in the temple grounds, as it is regarded as a sign of bloodshed and violence, which go against the purpose of the religious monument. No clothes or any offerings in red should be present at the chedi.
Phi Ta Khon Museum at Wat Phon Chai
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The Phi Ta Khon Festival is without a doubt the most famous cultural event in Loei, perhaps even in the entire Northeast of Thailand or Isan as it is better known. The Festival has put the otherwise sleepy town of Dan Sai on the international tourist map.
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Located in Wat Phon Chai, the heart of the Festival, the Museum displays information related to the Phi Ta Khon traditional merit-making celebration. Also on show are various colourful Phi Ta Khon masks and costumes.
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Wat Phon Chai, Tambon Dan Sai, Amphoe Dan Sai, Loei
Open daily from 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Tel. 0 4289 1094 (Non-formal Education Centre)
Visitors are welcome to paint their own version of the mask, albeit in a small size. The Museum features a shop selling many eye- catching souvenirs.
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The fee is about 200 Baht per group depending on the number of people. Please call for more information on this activity.
Kaeng Khut Khu: rapids in the Mekong
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The small, peaceful town of Chiang Khan is a favourite destination with urban Thais in search of the less-hurried lifestyle of the past. Kaeng Khut Khu is among its well-known attractions and is located around 3 km from Chiang Khan town.
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Sitting in a bend of the Mekong, these small islets obstruct the flow of the river, creating fast-moving rapids. Kaeng Khut Khu is best seen from February to May, when the islets are more visible as a result of decreasing water flows.
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A riverfront park with a viewpoint tower, shops, and an exhibition hall sits on the bank and offers an orientation of the province. It is a pleasant place to relax and watch the Mekong flowing by.
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Tambon Chiang Khan, Amphoe Chiang Khan, Loei
Tel. 08 1137 6051, 06 2197 0269, 09 2885 3975 (Thai – Lao PDR Tour Boat Club)
A sight-seeing boat trip is popular with visitors to Kaeng Khut Khu. The tour takes about an hour and costs 800 Baht/boat.
Walking Street – the happening place of Chiang Khan
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The epicenter of activity in the town, Chiang Khan Walking Street is where you can rent a bike and set off for a leisurely cycling trip along the bank of the Mekong. The 6-km bicycle lane ends at Kaeng Khut Khu. Several shops along the walking street offer bikes for rent.
The Walking Street is also a great place to catch the sun setting over the Mekong. While the question of border demarcation is complicated, it doesn’t matter here who owns the mountain or river, or even the sun and sky, as long as the mesmerising view is all yours to enjoy for free.
Chiang Khan Walking Street is open all day but gets busier in the late afternoon. While walking streets are now common in Thailand, this one in Chiang Khan is especially charming. The attractive old-fashioned shops and stalls selling food, clothes and souvenirs, and even the visitors themselves are all reasons for the good vibes.
Day 2
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Another activity is offering food to monks. Nowadays, you can put cooked sticky rice and other food in the same alms bowl.
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In the old days, only sticky rice would be directly offered to the monks while other dishes would be brought to and set up at the temple by villagers later on. This was to ensure that the monks would have freshly cooked food upon finishing their alms round.
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The time for giving alms is from 5:30-7:00 am.
Phu Tok hilltop viewpoint
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This popular spot offers a great view of the mighty Mekong River and, if you’re lucky, the “sea of mist”. It is about 3 km from Chiang Khan town, and also houses the telecommunication facility station of Chiang Khan.
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From the top of the hill, you can see the Lao town of Sanakham and Kaeng Khut Khu. And even if the mist is so thick you can’t make out anything below, it is always a good place to hang around just for the abundance of fresh air and spectacular views.
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Cars are not permitted. Visitors must park and walk (about 2 km) or take a pickup truck run by the villagers. The fee is 25 Baht per person and takes about 10 minutes.
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Tambon Chiang Khan, Amphoe Chiang Khan, Loei
Open daily from 5:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Tai Dam Cultural Village
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This village is among only a few ethnic Tai Dam villages still existing in today’s Thailand, and the only one in the Northeast. It offers visitors a chance to learn and experience the Tai Dam’s unique way of life, including their clothing, performing arts and food.
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A Tai Dam house is raised on stilts with the ground floor serving as a shop selling goods produced by the community members. There is a communal space for activities nearby.
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20/2, Mu 12, Ban Na Pa Nat, Tambon Khao Kaeo, Amphoe Chiang Khan, Loei
Open daily from 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Free admission
Tel. 08 3332 2828, 08 4925 0771 (Khun Eiw)
If you fancy wearing a Tai Dam traditional costume while visiting the village, you can don an outfit free of charge. Highly recommended is taking a cart tour to explore the village, and getting to know the history of the people and their architecture. The tour takes about 45-60 minutes depending on how long you stop at each spot along the way.
If you are love food, try Tai Dam cuisine. We recommend booking in advance for their hearty menu, which includes dishes; such as, papaya salad, fish and herbal chicken soups, and omelet.
Making a Tai Dam charm called Tum Nok Tum Nu is another enjoyable activity. You can choose what to make from among their various lucky charms.
We recommend contacting the village in advance for details on activities and pricing.
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July-August is the low season at the village, as there are no farming activities.
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PS. Costumes and admission are free. A village tour, food, and other activities can be part of a package, the price of which varies depending on the activities selected.
